Photos / @julierzlens + @photosbynathalie
In a world saturated with fleeting trends, some designers possess an innate ability to transcend the ordinary, crafting narratives through fabric and upcycled form. Samuel Gärtner is such a visionary, whose latest collection is a testament to evolution rooted in self-discovery. Beyond his unique aesthetic, Gärtner is also single-handedly revitalizing the fashion scene in Frankfurt, from groundbreaking runway shows at the Senckenberg Naturmuseum (Frankfurt’s natural history museum) to the Eiserner Steg (historic iron bridge), and most recently, transforming a drive-in into a catwalk spectacle, establishing the city as a hub for cutting-edge design. We connected with the creative force to delve into the inspirations, challenges, and unyielding philosophy that define his unique universe.
What was the central inspiration behind your latest collection?
This collection was a true “back to the roots” moment! I literally revisited my first three collections, pulling out the bold, oversized collars from my debut, the playful prints and florals from my second, and the vibrant colors that defined my third. The goal was to mash them all up, reinterpreting those core elements to create something entirely new and fresh. It’s like a conversation with my past self, but with a forward-looking twist.
Were there specific cultural or musical influences that shaped its direction?
For me, inspiration is everywhere! Architecture, art, nature, the people I meet—it’s all a beautiful, endless mix. But music? That’s huge for me. I’m a passionate opera and musical lover, and my playlists are wild—from classical to country, pop to metal. That incredible diversity of sound and emotion really fuels the energy and mood I want to translate into my designs. It’s all about that emotional resonance.
Walk us through your process — from sketch to finished garment. Was there one piece that challenged you the most?
My process is rarely linear. Sketches? Honestly, they’re rare! Most of the time, I have a vision in my head and just dive in, very intuitively, almost freestyle. The most exciting things often emerge from that hands-on interaction with fabrics. Of course, materials can be tricky—they don’t always behave as you imagine! But I’ve learned to embrace that, stay flexible, and let the fabric lead. In this collection, faux fur was definitely demanding, requiring a lot of patience. But overall, it was surprisingly effortless and so much fun to bring to life.
Fashion can be both art and commerce. How do you balance pure artistic vision with wearability?
That balance is fascinating to me! On one hand, fashion is art—it should be boundary-pushing, unconventional. On the other hand, I want people to feel good and comfortable in my pieces. So, my work always lives in that sweet spot between couture and streetwear. This blend ensures my designs are wearable, yet my unique style and vision shine through. For me, art and wearability aren’t at odds; they’re two sides of the same very stylish coin.
Collaborations like the one with Nelly Furtado often live at the intersection of fashion and pop culture. How did the response land with you?
The Nelly Furtado collaboration was an absolute dream come true, opening doors I never imagined! Nelly is an icon, and dressing her was a huge honor. What truly made me happiest was seeing how comfortable and confident she felt in the looks. The response was incredible: positive press, excited fans, amazing feedback from my peers. It meant so much because music and pop culture are huge passions of mine—I even have classical vocal training and make music as a hobby! So, working at that intersection felt incredibly natural. The overwhelming response was fantastic, but above all, I’m just grateful it made Nelly happy.
Looking at your journey so far, how has your brand evolved — and what remains a non-negotiable in your design DNA?
Both my brand and I have grown so much! Early on, things were more experimental, a lot of self-testing. Now, I have a much clearer design language, but I’m always evolving. Some elements, though, are truly non-negotiable: oversized cuts, a love for extravagance, and a strong connection to streetwear. These are the pillars of my design DNA, the red thread that runs through everything. Even when colors or prints change, that essence remains, and it always feels authentically me.
Where do you see your brand in five or ten years? What legacy are you building toward?
My vision is to continue growing and anchoring the brand even deeper in the entertainment industry. Collaborating with artists like Halle Bailey, Saweetie, and Nelly Furtado has shown me how much I thrive on that creative exchange. In the next five to ten years, I see more collaborations for performances, music videos, and cultural moments. At the same time, I want to reconnect more with ready-to-wear, so both the artistic and everyday worlds can coexist. The legacy I’m building is a brand that champions creativity, boldness, and self-expression—a platform that empowers people to be unapologetically themselves.
Finally, what advice would you give to young designers trying to find their voice in such a crowded landscape?
My biggest advice is simple: just do it! Don’t overthink it—try things, make mistakes, and learn. Be curious, be bold, and put yourself out there. Networking is essential, but connections only happen when you take that first step—send that DM, start that conversation. And when setbacks inevitably come, don’t get discouraged; they’re part of the process. Most importantly: stay true to yourself. Don’t copy others; find your own unique language. That’s the only way to stay relevant and truly shine in the long run.
