Story / Phil Gomez
Photos / Rory Alvarez
Growing up a Latino Catholic schoolboy, a world where the word “Voodoo” was something demonized, and strictly off-limits. So, when the invite hit my inbox for New Orleans International Vodou Day, my inner Scorpio went into a full-blown existential crisis. One half of me was clutching my metaphorical rosary, while the other was wildly seduced by the mystery. I’d spent years resisting the Big Easy; as someone hyper-sensitive to energies, I feared the city’s heavy history would be a haunted house I’d never quite escape. But let’s be real: when Kelly Cutrone invites you on a spiritual odyssey, you pack your bags, and say YES.
Armed with palo santo and a list of recommendations from my favorite Disco Witch and NOLA devotee LEXXE, I descended upon the crescent city. From the moment we touched down, the humidity felt like a welcoming embrace. We checked into the Hotel One11, a quaint sanctuary perfectly perched in the French Quarter. After an early flight, the first order of business was a pilgrimage to the Napoleon House for a Muffuletta. One bite of that quintessential New Orleans sandwich and the city didn’t just win my heart it claimed it.
Buzzing from a Pimm’s Cup, I surrendered to the visual decadence of the French Quarter. Getting lost in those centuries-old streets felt surprisingly grounding. The “scary” ghosts I’d spent a lifetime fearing? Nowhere to be found. Instead, the air was thick with a peaceful, comforting vibration of jazz music. It didn’t feel foreign; it felt like a homecoming I didn’t know I was allowed to have.
That evening, the vibe shifted from personal wanderlust to deep cultural immersion at the legendary Kingsway estate. Inside this 1848 haven where icons like Bob Dylan, Iggy Pop, and Sheryl Crow once recorded some of our favorite bops, a floor to ceiling Swarovski cascade chandelier shimmered over a global delegation of Voodoo scholars and practitioners from all over the world. “It’s like Voodou Prom,” Amy Hession says, a tradition keeper from the house of La Source Ancienne Ounfo, “you’re never going to run into this particular group of people anywhere else at any other time”. La Source Ancienne Ounfo, is a society dedicated to the purity of Haitian Vodou. They spoke of Vodou not as a Ryan Murphy Hollywood horror trope, but as a living, breathing tradition of healing and reciprocity. The night peaked with sacred Kreyol songs led by the respected Manbo Mami Moun (Marie St. Germaine). Her voice was a sonic hug that dissolved my last lingering misconceptions, culminating in a collective, soul-stirring sing-along of “Stand By Me.”
The following morning at Xavier University, the International Vodou Day symposium is free and open to the public. Scholars broke down how Voodou served as the ultimate survival kit and tool of resistance for enslaved Africans. It was a masterclass in how faith can be the ultimate foster of collective consciousness.
“Interpreting Marie Laveau’s legacy and how it’s been so misinterpreted over the years is truly fascinating,” noted designer Michael Schmidt, a fellow first-time attendee.
The most resonant moment for me was a lecture by Jean-Daniel Lafontant. Even through the language barrier, the message was clear: we are all a constellation of spiritual elements. When a guest asked about the link between Vodou and Ai, the answer was a revelation: everything is Vodou if you infuse it with intention. Intention gives power; belief gives life. We are the architects of our own energy.
Sunday was the main event. We joined the Vodou Day procession, winding our way toward Congo Square the sacred ground where, since the 1740s, enslaved people gathered to keep their traditions alive against all odds. Today, that drumbeat still thumps. We met YeYe, a mystic diva and Ifa Priestess who guided us through the beautiful tradition of leaving offerings under the “Marie Laveau Tree.” Recharged and vibrating with extra spiritual juice, we headed to the New Orleans Healing Center for a traditional ceremony. The energy was tangible, a literal buzz in the bones. Witnessing these ancient rituals, I realized how drastically the mainstream world gets this wrong. Vodou isn’t about darkness or hexes; it’s an ancestral lifeline. It’s about connecting to the past to enlighten the future. It’s about living with compassion and fierce intention.
I left New Orleans feeling fundamentally empowered. I realized that if believing in the healing power of the Earth and the strength of our ancestors makes me “dark,” then call me a bruja and let me dance. Vodou isn’t something to fear, it’s a resilient, beautiful form of self-expression that celebrates the divinity within us all. New Orleans didn’t just haunt me; it woke me up. So, in the spirit of Vodou, here is our LADYGUNN NOLA offering:
- Visit Congo Square and leave an offering at the “Marie Laveau Tree”.
- Stop by the New Orleans Healing Center for a dose of local wellness and mysticism.
- Eat a po’ boy from Killer Poboys, one of the city’s best takes on the iconic sandwich.
- Savor a legendary Muffuletta from Napoleon House, a New Orleans staple.
- Enjoy lunch at Pêche, one of the city’s best seafood destinations.
- Make time for a meal at Cochon, a local favorite for Cajun-inspired flavors.
- Have dinner at Evviva for a cozy evening.
- Browse the enchanting finds at Sassy Magick, a favorite stop for all things spiritual and magical.
- Get an order of Beignet at Cafe Du Monde and enjoy at Jackson Square Park.
- Shop at Vice & Graft for a thoughtfully curated collection of vintage, heritage, and handcrafted pieces.
- Stay at the International House Hotel, where historic charm meets modern luxury with a great art collection.
A little magic, a lot of flavor, and all the charm that makes New Orleans unforgettable.
